RV Winterizing Checklist (Free & Printable)

Freezing water is the most expensive thing that can happen to a parked RV. This checklist walks the whole winterizing job in order — water system first, then batteries, exterior, and interior — with type-specific steps for motorhomes, towables, and pop-ups.

Gather your supplies

• 2–3 gallons of RV/marine antifreeze (the pink stuff)Only use antifreeze rated for drinking-water systems — never automotive antifreeze.
• Water heater bypass kit (if one isn't already installed)Saves you 6–10 gallons of antifreeze by keeping it out of the water heater tank.
• Water pump converter kit or siphon hoseLets your 12V water pump draw antifreeze straight from the jug.
• Tank flushing wand or built-in flush hooked up
• Basic hand tools and a socket for the water heater drain plugMost Suburban water heaters use a 1-1/16" socket; Atwood uses a 7/8".

Drain the water system

• Drain and flush the black and gray holding tanks at a dump stationRinse the black tank until the water runs clear — anything left will sit all winter.
• Drain the fresh water tank completely
• Turn off the water heater and let it cool, then drain itRelieve pressure first by opening the pressure relief valve, then pull the drain plug/anode rod. Never drain a hot or pressurized tank.
• Inspect the water heater anode rod; replace if heavily corroded (Suburban models)
• Open all low-point drain lines (hot and cold)Usually red and blue lines underneath the rig. Open faucets to help them drain.
• Open every faucet and flush the toilet until water stops flowing, then close everything

Pump in the antifreeze

• Set the water heater bypass valve(s) to BYPASS
• Connect the pump converter kit and drop the hose in the antifreeze jug
• Turn on the water pump and open each faucet — hot then cold — until it runs pinkWork from the faucet closest to the pump to the farthest. Don't forget the outside shower and outside kitchen if you have them.
• Flush the toilet until pink appears, then pour a cup of antifreeze into the bowlThis keeps the flush-ball seal from drying out over winter.
• Pour a cup of antifreeze down every sink and shower drain to protect the P-traps
• Winterize the washing machine, dishwasher, and ice maker if equipped (Class A Motorhome, Fifth Wheel, Toy Hauler)Each has its own procedure — check the appliance manual.
• Winterize the black tank flush lineThis line often has its own check valve that traps water — blow it out or run antifreeze through it.

Engine, generator & chassis

• Fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer, then run the engine a few minutes (motorhomes)
• Run the generator ~30 minutes with stabilized fuel, then shut it down (motorhomes, Toy Hauler)Change the generator oil first if it's near its service interval.
• Check engine antifreeze/coolant protection level (motorhomes)
• Top off the windshield washer fluid with winter-rated fluid (motorhomes)

Batteries & power

• Remove or disconnect the house batteries; store somewhere that stays above freezingA discharged battery can freeze and crack. Keep it on a maintenance charger.
• Disconnect the chassis battery or put it on a battery tender (motorhomes)
• Make sure the breakaway switch battery is disconnected or maintained (towables)
• Unplug everything and switch off the 12V disconnect if your rig has one

Exterior

• Wash the roof and inspect every seam, vent, and sealant line; reseal anything crackedWater intrusion is the #1 killer of stored RVs. Self-leveling lap sealant is cheap insurance.
• Close and cover roof vents; consider vent covers that allow airflow
• Turn off the propane at the tank/cylinder valve and cover the regulator
• Inflate tires to the pressure on the placard and cover themUV is brutal on sidewalls. Park on boards or pads if storing on dirt or grass.
• Chock the wheels and take weight off the stabilizer jacks (they're not for long-term support) (towables, Truck Camper)
• Seal every opening you can find against mice — steel wool works in gapsCheck where plumbing and wiring pass through the floor. Mice destroy more stored RVs than winter does.
• Cover the RV or store under a roof if you can — use a breathable RV cover, not a plastic tarp

Interior

• Remove ALL food — even canned and sealed dry goodsCans can freeze and burst; anything else is a mouse invitation.
• Defrost the fridge/freezer, wipe dry, and prop the doors openA latched-shut fridge grows mold. Most doors have a storage catch to hold them cracked open.
• Remove bedding, towels, and anything that holds moisture
• Set out moisture absorbers (DampRid or similar)
• Close the blinds/shades to protect the interior from UV
• Take home valuables, electronics, batteries in devices, and anything freeze-sensitive

Canvas care

• Make sure the canvas is completely dry before folding down — never store it damp (Pop-Up Camper)Damp canvas mildews in weeks. Pop it up on a dry day to air out if needed.
• Brush off dirt and debris from the canvas and seals (Pop-Up Camper)
• Lubricate the lift system and latch hardware (Pop-Up Camper)

Garage & fuel station

• Drain or stabilize the onboard fuel station tank (Toy Hauler)
• Winterize toys stored in the garage per their own manuals; put batteries on tenders (Toy Hauler)
• Leave the garage clean and dry — sweep out mud and fuel spills (Toy Hauler)

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